Pattern for Wormhead’s Jester Hat
Feb 13, 2006 | Free Hat Patterns

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Hat Description
Jester Hat is a playful structural Hat with a rolled brim, worked in stocking stitch. At the crown it has 3 structural points that grow outwards from the top of the Hat and curl slightly inwards and downwards.
Pattern Availability
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Pattern Support
If you have a question about this pattern, pop it in a comment below. Sorry, but I’m unable to help with my free patterns or tutorials via email or private messages.
Social Media
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#WoollyWormhead
#WWJesterHat
Yarn
195yd/178m/100g
Heavy Aran or Chunky weight, single or multi-ply yarn.
Needles & Notions
Set 5mm/UK6/US8 DPNs/Circular or size needed to obtain gauge
Stitch marker as necessary
Tapestry needle
Sample Details
Shown in BabyLongLegs organically Farmed Merino [195yd/178m per 100g; 100% Merino]
Shown on model with 22in/56cm circumference head.
Note
The main pattern here is for the 2-point version; notes for a 3-point version is included at the end. The size given here is for an average sized head – increasing or decreasing for the 2-point version is easy, just remember that you need to have the no. of stitches you cast on with divisible by 4.
If you go for a larger size, you may need more yarn… alternatively you could make the main body a tad shorter, or increase a few less stitches at the top. To adjust the size, work a gauge swatch in your chosen yarn and determine from there how many more (or less) stitches you need to cast on for each version, remembering to allow approximately 2in/5cm, or roughly 10%, of negative ease, (i.e. you Hat needs to be a little smaller than the intended head size to ensure a snug fit)
Gauge
17 sts x 22 rows to 4in/10cm on 5mm needles over St.St.
Sizes
Pattern is given for typical adult women’s size, approximately 21 inches. However, armed with a gauge swatch and measurements of the person the Hat is intended for, you can adjust this pattern accordingly to suit your tastes. Just remember to allow for negative ease.
Not sure which size to make? Check my handy size and measuring guide!
Skills Required
Cable Cast-on
Knitting in the round
Increases and Decreases
Grafting Stocking Stitch
Modified 3-needle Bind-off
Blocking a Hand Knit Hat
Abbreviations
K: knit
rpt: repeat
R/rnd(s): rounds
st(s): stitch(es)
M1: pick up the horizontal loop before the next stitch, place it onto the left needle & knit into the front of it
How To
Using Cable Cast-on method, cast on 76 sts (or a number divisible by 4). Join in the round, being careful not to twist stitches. Place stitch marker to indicate start of round.
Body
Knit every row to form stocking stitch.
Continue plain for 7in/18cm or desired length.
It is now a good idea to make sure the stitches are evenly distributed across 4 needles, with a 5th as the working needle.
Crown
Next rnd:
Needle 1: K18, M1, K1
Needle 2: K1, M1, K18
Needle 3: K18, M1, K1
Needle 4: K1, M1, K18.
(1 round completed)
You will now have 4 points of increase, each at the end of a needle, and you will be increasing 4 sts per round.
Next rnd: K19, M1, K2, M1, K38, M1, K2, M1, K19.
Next rnd: K20, M1, K2, M1, K40, M1, K2, M1, K20.
Next rnd: K21, M1, K2, M1, K42, M1, K2, M1, K21.
Continue in this fashion, increasing one stitch either side of the K2’s, increasing 4 sts per round. As you gain more stitches, it may become tight on the needles. This is due to the combination of rapid increases either side of the 2 sts that remain straight. Don’t worry, as this is what will give the points their curl.
Finishing the points
When you have reached a total of 152 sts, bind off. Use either Kitchener stitch, 3-needle bind-off or crochet bind-off. Each of these will give a neat top edge. To give it a more professional look, I started the bind-off from the tips of the points, working towards the centre. To divide for bind-off, separate your stitches like this:
The stitches that fall between your M1 increases are the centre of your points, and the adjacent M1’s form the lower edge of your point. Move your stitches so that the point can be folded in half, with the centre fold underneath your work. Then bind-off the amount of stitches for your point (i.e. If you have 152 sts for the 2-point version, that is 76 sts per point, so when preparing to bind off you will have 38 sts on each needle)
Note
It isn’t absolutely necessary to reach 152 sts – this is a suggested number of stitches suitable for this gauge and for the 2 -point version. If you run out of yarn, bind-off there.
The more stitches you have before you bind off will give wider and curlier points; less will make them slightly shorter. For the 2-point version shown in the photo, knitting continued until all the skein was used before casting off.
How to (1 point version)
Cast on required amount of stitches depending on gauge and finished size, divisible by 2. Work plain body same as before. The increases for the point can be anywhere on the round that you choose – centre back is ideal.
If you cast-on 76sts, the increases would start as follows:
Next rnd: K37, M1, K2, M1, K37.
Next rnd: K38, M1, K2, M1, K38 etc etc
Carry on until the point is large enough or you get fed up!
How to (3 point version)
Cast on required amount of stitches, divisible by 6. Work plain body same as before. The best way to arrange the point is to have one either at the centre front or the centre back and the other 2 equally placed on the round.
For 78 sts, increases would start as follows:
Next rnd: K1, M1, K24, M1, K2, M1, K24, M1, K2, M1, K24, M1, K1
Next rnd: K1, M1, K26, M1, K2, M1, K26, M1, K2, M1, K26, M1, K1 etc etc.
How to (4 point version)
Cast on required amount of stitches, divisible by 8 (typically 80sts for an adult). This one will get tricky on the needles as you start to increase for the points, and your points won’t be as wide either.
For 80 sts, increases would start as follows:
Next rnd: K1, M1, K18, M1, K2, M1, K18, M1, K2, M1, K18, M1, K2, M1, K18, M1, K1
Finishing
Weave in all ends. A light blocking is needed to allow the increases to settle and prevent puckering.
Enjoy your Hat! Jester was designed to be a fun, simple Hat, ideal for a quick knit or beginners making their first project on DPNs. It suits hand-dyed and variegated yarns perfectly.
Need Help With This Pattern?
If you’ve a question about this pattern, please pop it in the comments below and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can! I’m afraid I’m unable to offer help via email or private message, but you’re welcome to post in our forum.
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Hi Ruth
Can you get a 3-pointer out of one skein of Maya? (Guess what I got in the post this morning?!)(actually I think I was pretty bloody good only getting the one skein, I mean it’s on sale which is not like really buying it is it?LOL)
Sal the spider who blogger suddenly refuses to accept exists
Hey Sal,
Yep, I got the 3-pointer out of one skein of Maya. For that red one I knitted until the skein ran out, and the point’s are a good enough size.
And only buying one? Blimey… good girl 😉
I love this hat! Hehe, it’s great, and I’m glad it’s one skein, fits right in my budget. 🙂
Thanks for the great pattern,
Mienna
I love this pattern!
I’m trying to make the 3-point version on 4 DPN’s – I’ve begun the increase and I’ve just realised I dont know how far I’m going. I was hoping you could tell me the number of stitches you got to for the red 3-pointer?
Thanks, Simon
Hi Simon,For the 3 peak Hat, I got to roughly 204 stitches before starting the bind off (have just counted from the Hat I made) using the Maya.It would have got *really* tight on the needles should I have had more yarn and tried to increase further. But in terms of how far you are going with the increases, continuing until you run out of yarn OR find it too tight on the needles is the easiest way to judge when it’s time to bind off – you don’t get the full width of the points until they’re off the needles.Hope that helps! Woolly
I’ve been looking for a knitting pattern like this for a while! I love this!
Would you be so kind enough as to put up the 4 point variation, too?
Hi Sunrean,
You can do a 4-point version, although it gets a little tight on the needles. You can work it out from a no. of stitches divisible by 8. Have been up to my eyes in ‘stuff’ so will check back, find my notes and post an update in a few days!
Just wanted to tell you that I love this pattern! I made it for a friend and even though he picked out terrible colors for it, it turned out gorgeous! I can’t wait to knit it for myself! (and my son, and hubbie…the list goes on…) Thanks again, you are a very talented hat designer!
I’m attempting the three point version, however, I’m a little confused on what to do. I’m starting the increase but I’m not sure how it forms the three points. This kind of hat is a first for me and I’m afraid I may be in over my head. I hope you can help. Thanks!
Hi,
Shall try and explain as clearly as possible!
The increases – M1’s – will add to the width at each point, so basically the points are created through width.
The 3 point version is probably the hardest to see this on as it’s an odd number and won’t be as clear whilst knitting. But follow the instructions and you will get your 3 points, I promise!
If you need any more help, email me at woolly.wormhead@yahoo.co.uk 🙂
Not sure if this is a dumb question but – do the increase go into the centre, and the straight knitting get joined together for the points, or the other way around? I’m making the 3-point version and I honestly can’t make head nor tail of it ;).
No.. it’s sorta the other way round. The increases are forming the curve that you see underneath the points, i.e. working the increases creates the points.The straight knitting is between the points.Make sense?Basically, the rapid increases form your knitting to increase outwards and curl slightly (because they are rapid), with the straight knitting staying in the middle…If you need any more help, email me direct. You will get the points to work though, I promise!
Cheers,Woolly