Dylan’s Beanie
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Hat Description
Dylan’s Beanie is worked from the top down. The crown increases curve gently and the entire beanie is worked in k1, p1 ribbing. The Hat is extra long so that the bottom can be flipped upwards as a brim.
Pattern Availability
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Pattern Support
If you have a question about this pattern, pop it in a comment below. Sorry, but I’m unable to help with my free patterns or tutorials via email or private messages.
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Yarn
220yd/201m/100g
Heavy DK or Worsted weight, multi-plied yarn
Needles & Notions
Set 4mm/UK8/US6 DPNs/Circular or size needed to obtain gauge
Stitch marker as necessary
Tapestry needle
Sample Details
Shown in Little Houndales Knits Yorkshire Wolds Suffolk X [220yd/201m per 100g; 100% Wool]
Shown in size 23in/58.5cm on model with 23in/58.5cm circumference head
Gauge
20 sts x 28 rows to 4in/10cm on 4mm needles over St.St.
Sizes
To fit sizes: 15 [18, 20, 23] in/38 [46, 51, 58.5] cm
Finished size: 12 [14.5, 17, 19.5] in/ 30.5 [37, 43, 49.5] cm
Not sure which size to make? Check my handy size and measuring guide!
Skills Required
Circular Cast-on
Knitting in the round
Increases and Decreases
Stretchy Bind-off
Draw-through Bind-off
Blocking a Hand Knit Hat
Abbreviations
K: knit
P: purl
rpt: repeat
R/rnd(s): rounds
st(s): stitch(es)
M1: pick up the horizontal loop before the next stitch, place it onto the left needle & knit into the front of it
M1P: lift the horizontal loop between next 2 sts, place it onto the left needle & purl into the back of it
kb&pf: knit into the back of the next stitch, then purl into the front of it. If you find this increase a little tight, you could try knitting into the front then purling into the back.
How To
Using circular cast-on method, cast on 6 sts
Join in the round, being careful not to twist sts. Place stitch marker to indicate start of round.
Crown
Rnd 1: *kb&pf; rpt from * to end [12 sts]
Rnd 2: *K1, M1, P1; rpt from * to end [18 sts]
Rnd 3: *K1, M1P, K1, P1; rpt from * to end [24 sts]
Rnd 4: *K1, M1, P1, K1, P1; rpt from * to end [30 sts]
Rnd 5: *K1, M1P, [K1, P1] twice; rpt from * to end [36 sts]
Rnd 6: *K1, M1, P1, [K1, P1] twice; rpt from * to end [42 sts]
Rnd 7: *K1, M1P, [K1, P1] 3 times; rpt from * to end [48 sts]
Rnd 8: *K1, M1, P1, [K1, P1] 3 times; rpt from * to end [54 sts]
Rnd 9: *K1, M1P, [K1, P1] 4 times; rpt from * to end [60 sts]
15in size jump to body section
Rnd 10: *K1, M1, P1, [K1, P1] 4 times; rpt from * to end [66 sts]
Rnd 11: *K1, M1P, [K1, P1] 5 times; rpt from * to end [72 sts]
18in size jump to body section
Rnd 12: *K1, M1, P1, [K1, P1] 5 times; rpt from * to end [78 sts]
Rnd 13: *K1, M1P, [K1, P1] 6 times; rpt from * to end [84 sts]
20in size jump to body section
Rnd 14: *K1, M1, P1, [K1, P1] 6 times; rpt from * to end [90 sts]
Rnd 15: *K1, M1P, [K1, P1] 7 times; rpt from * to end [96 sts]
Body
Next Rnd: *K1, P1; rpt from * to end
Repeat this round, forming 1 x 1 ribbing, until Hat measures approximately 6 [7, 8, 9] in/15.24 [17.75, 20.25, 23] cm from crown with the ribbing unstretched; 8 [9, 10, 11] in/15.25 [17.75, 25.5, 28]cm for a folded Brim. Cast-off very loosely. An elastic bind-off is recommended.
Finishing
Weave in all ends and block as required.
Alteration notes
For a longer or shorter Hat, adjust the amount of knitting done after the crown shaping – add an extra 3 in/7.5cm or so for a fold up brim.
To alter the circumference, should you wish for a larger or smaller head size or to adjust for a difference in gauge, the pattern is worked on multiples of 12 sts and you should end the increasing after a M1P increase round to ensure an even K1, P1 rib for the body.
Ending the crown increasing after a M1 increase round is not advised, as this will leave you with a K2 at the 6 increase points on the Hat, and will not make for an even K1, P1 rib.
If you are working with a different gauge yarn, that’s no problem, and it’s easy with a top-down knit to adjust the crown increases to suit your yarn. You’ll need an idea of how many stitches per inch your yarn gives in stocking stitch and an approximate size of the recipients head (remembering to allow for roughly 2 to 3 inches/ 5 to 7.5cm of negative ease)
If you multiply the head measurement less the negative ease by the number of sts per inch, you’ll get the no. of sts you’re aiming for after increases, so just stop increasing at the closest point given in the pattern! It’s fairly simple to do, and if in doubt, try the Hat on.
Need Help With This Pattern?
If you’ve a question about this pattern, please pop it in the comments below and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can! I’m afraid I’m unable to offer help via email or private message, but you’re welcome to post in our forum.
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Woolly Wormhead
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16 Comments
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How can i get the pdf file ?
Hi there, if you right click on the blog post it’ll bring up printing options – there you can tell it to print to PDF and scale the page increase the print size or save on paper.
I hope this helps!
Absolutely a beautiful piece. I love this one for a men’s Chemo hat. I knit hats for my Chemo centre in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada General Hospital. Do you mind if I use it for that. I myself am a cancer patient and there were no hats for us as paitients. I have been looking for some classy patterns. Yours are the nicest. I think I will look for your book if I have a chance.
Thank you, and of course you can! Many of my knitters use my patterns, especially the free ones, for charity knits 🙂 I am more than happy that you’d choose one of my patterns for Hat donations to your chemo centre. Good luck with your treatment!
hi, beginner knitter here- I was wondering what the difference between “to fit sizes” and “finished size” is?
Hi there!
The ‘Finished Size’ refers to the size of the Hat once it’s finished.
The ‘To Fit Size’ is the size of the it’s intended to fit.
The difference between these is known as ‘negative ease’ – and it’s negative ease that keeps a Hat on a head and stops it falling off. I usually recommend a Hat be approximately 12% smaller than the size of the head wearing it.
I explain more here:
https://woollywormhead.com/blog/2009/09/26/hat-sizing-guide
I hope this helps!
Hi! I am wondering if I should be doing M1L or M1R, as well as M1PL or M1PR. I love the way these increases look from the top, and would like to replicate. Thank you so much
Hi there,
No, you don’t want to do balanced increases here, as the crown is designed to spiral, and that means using only one type of M1 and M1P.
You can see the shape of the crown in the bottom photo – all the increases are stacked and only occur at the end of the repeat. If you want to do balanced increases for the kind of look you describe, you’d need to re-write the crown shaping or try a different pattern 🙂
This is a really nice pattern.
I knit this hat at my husband’s request and it turned out great.
I made it a double layer so it is super warm. 🙂
that’s great to hear!
Hello 🙂 I’m gonna have a go at this though I have no idea about kbpf and circular casting on but I’ll work it out 🙂
Just wondering how many 50g balls of 10ply I would need to knit a large adult size? Is it two balls? Thank you
I doubt you’ll need more than 100g of yarn! There’s a tutorial for the Circular Cast-on 🙂
Ooh,thanks so much
Hi there! Great pattern. I notice there are not a 23 inch instructions listed in the crown section and it goes from the 20 inch size to the body.. do you recommend two more rounds for that sizing? Thank you!
For the 23in size work the crown through to Rounds 14 & 15 🙂
The ‘Jump to’ instruction is where once size stops, and continues into the next section (the body), and the other sizes continue with the crown shaping until they need to stop increasing and continue into the body.
There’s no ‘Jump to’ for the largest size as that needs all of the crown shaping worked.
Thank you so much! That makes sense